Last Sunday, September 14th, I worked as a volunteer course marshall on the San Francisco T-Mobile International (formerly known as SF Grand Prix and real mouthful, so people still refer to it as the Gran(d) Prix.) Approaching the end of the race I had a serious sunburn going, which I suspected, but wouldn't feel the full brunt of for 24 hours and was pretty pooped.

Lo, Melissa (sorry if I got the spelling wrong), an inquisitive biology student appears and asks what is going on? Like many of the people residing in the neighborhood, near Leavenworth and Bay, it's a bit of a mystery and sometimes opined as a serious inconvenience. (Not that papers, TV, radio, and notices posted all over the place for days leading up to it would make anything clear.) I explain to the best of my weary mind the race, the tactics, the speed, the excitement (as it occurs to me anyway) and she seems to take all this in with considerable interest.

She sticks around for the duration and during a lull she tells me about the many stairways of San Francisco and her plan to visit many of them and this marvelous book she has, Stairway Walks in San Francisco, by Adah Bakalinsky. The books sounds fascinating and her interest is infectious, even to my sleep deprived brain. The race wraps up and we bid adieu, she to get on with her walk and me to drive the 90 miles back home to Santa Cruz, without driving off a cliff or something. (I dislike sodas, but cave and pick up a large Mt. Dew in Pacifica and manage to safely get home.) Stupidly I forget to ask if I may join her on one of her future walks or to even get a phone number. (Shy or stupid or both :-( She seemed nice enough I shouldn't have let the opportunity get away and now I regret it.

Sunday, September 21st I have a copy of the book, secured at Bookshop Santa Cruz (a fine local bookshop which carries more variety and interest than you could shake a shillelagh at) and drive up to San Francisco, a city I usually try to get through to other sides as quickly as I can, lingering only when showing family members around Fisherman's Wharf or the Cliff House. I had really no idea the city held so many beautiful secrets, which I probably only cursed once, due to having to haul a bike up one a year ago. The stairs are often plain, though some are decorative and a few even accompanied by thoughtful architecture. The day was hot and I was soon wishing I had an earlier start and been better prepared. Walking up some steps was an effort and I consider myself to be in above average condition, though I ride a bike and probably don't use the same muscles the same way. At least the heart and lungs work well.

I found some nice secluded areas, some spectacular views and a few places under development or a bit neglected. However, as Adah mentions, San Francisco is a walking city, best seen by walking around. That it is. I have a greater appreciation for just the small areas I explored around the Marina district and Fort Mason and plan to head back in the near future to see more. Not a bad thing to say, actually, considering I had little interest in the city prior to this last visit. On to the pictures...

[Bigger]	The first stairway I visited was the one I could see, up Leavenworth from Bay, from where I course-marshalled. Across the bay, a pretty good view of Alcatraz.
[Bigger]	Looking east, Coit Tower.
[Bigger]	I walked up Chestnut, along Montclair and popped out onto Lombard, in the middle of the winding section, just in time to watch a few dozen tourists try their hand at navigating it. I can understand why the residents tire of this traffic, it would rattle me, if I lived there and had to wait in queue. The silly thing is, you can't see a thing while driving down Lombard at this point or you end up off the road. Skipping that part, the stairs up Lombard were short and broad with some pattern of sand and mortar laid across, perhaps for better footing in the wet. Over the top and across the street (where cars were indeed queued up a half block, this was the view down the other way, which I found breathtaking.
[Bigger]	At the corner of Lombard and Polk I found this interestingly design across from ...
[Bigger]	...this pretty building detail. One thing one can't help but notice in many areas of San Francisco, the pride in distintive design and color. Many cities I've been to are just ugly. Ugly to pass though and ugly to look at if you stop and take the time. A few areas of San Francisco fit that bill, but very few. Houses, townhouses, apartment buildings and so on can be something to be admired.
[Bigger]	This entrance on Lombard should amuse my sister, as she's a cat fancier, too.
[Bigger]	Looks can be deceiving. This stair forks to the left and right and contines up a ways. A lovely park, but not for the feint of heart hauling groceries.
[Bigger]	I took a detour to Larkin and ventured down into the tourist masses for a frozen fruit bar to stave of the heat. There was yet another stairway along Larkin beside a park. This was the view from the top, where I belive it is Chestnut, but looking down Larkin.
[Bigger]	A stairway beginning at the corner of Lombard and Larkin reveals a hidden park, complete with tiled benches and spectacular views...
[Bigger]	...and a fine tribute.
[Bigger]	Off seeking another bottle of water, I found a series of these in a wall along Bay near Columbus. It's hard to tell which will yield first. The bricks held back by the rod or the rod to rust.
[Bigger]	No water found, just people smoking in the only restaurant which looked inviting (thus I didn't enter, as there's no point paying for food, no matter how good, if I have to put up with the stale rank odor of tobacco smoke) I headed back to the truck for a lukewarm bottle I remembered in the front seat. In the bay a container ship makes its way toward the Oakland docks.
[Bigger]	With the sun easing a bit and a slight respite from the heat, I headed toward Fort Mason and found a few more interesting views.
[Bigger]	A cruise ship departs the bay for another port.

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